Back to the Variolites

Variolites, Olympic Peninsula, WA

I was back on the Elwha River again yesterday, documenting the amazing restoration project underway there after the removal of two old, salmon-proof dams.

(To learn more, go to:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elwha_Ecosystem_Restoration)

In the meantime, however, I always had an eye out for one of my favorite rocks - the Variolite, a rare altered basalt associated with the Crescent Formation.

This is not a lapidary stone - it does not take a good polish, but it is rare and unusual enough, that I collect them whenever I see them. In France, they are considered medicinal and just quite possibly spiritual. Who knew?

Unexpected Fossils

Fossil leaves/needles, Owyhee country

Sometimes, when I am in serious rock-collecting mode, I am picking things up on a whim - a flash of color or pattern might catch my eye. But I generally don't spend a lot of time inspecting each one. Often they just go into the bag for future study. Maybe this is why my car rides so slow when I come home from a trip!

As I have mentioned in previous posts, I was recently collecting in one of my favorite areas, the Owyhee mountains on eastern Oregon. I have been sorting through the specimens I collated, tossing out some, and polishing those that are worth the effort, especially picture jaspers. (see earlier blog post)

But this one was a surprise, different from anything else I saw, and with a pale purple that caught my eye. I tossed it in the bag and only took a closer look today. Breaking off a piece revealed an inner layer  crammed with leaf fossils. I haven't identified them, but they look like conifer needles, twigs etc. strewn throughout a single layer in what I am guessing is rhyolite tuff. A nice surprise!

Crazy Mixed-up Jasper

Owyhee Jasper

For years now, I have been in love with the stunning variety of colors and patterns that jasper can take on. And when you are talking about colorful jasper, it's hard to beat those from the amazing Owyhee Mountains of Eastern Oregon. Yes, I find plenty of interesting things around my home near Puget Sound, but several times a year I make the 9-hour drive out to this, my favorite rock location on Earth.

I spent just a few days there this time, collecting in the Succor Creek drainage and along Leslie Gulch. To be honest, I stuck to some pretty familiar, accessible locations. Frankly, if it hadn't been 95 degrees I might have explored further away from the roads, but I promised my wife I wouldn't do anything too crazy. What's truly amazing is how much there still is, within easy reach.

As I may have mentioned before, my inspiration has been Hans Gamma's breathtaking collection of Owyhee area jaspers both on his website and his book.   He knows some really hidden corners of these mountains that some day I will get to. But for now, I have several hundred pounds of jasper to sort, cut and polish.  Stay tuned for results.

Skokomish Obsession

Orbicular Jasper, Skokomish River

Somebody stop me. I have made two trips now to the Skokomish River looking for orbicular jasper. Today was a beauty, sunny and warm, and the river was running gin clear (see photo below). Good conditions for looking for jasper. As before, there are loads of interesting jaspers on this river, but very few have well-defined red orbs, so you spend a lot of time picking up stones, and then discarding them.

This one was high and dry on the gravel bar, and jumped out because of its vivid color.

I found others in the water, as in the photo below. The only trouble is...you can't see the water. Believe it or not, these rocks are under a smooth sheet of water, e.g. just about perfect for scanning for rocks. And surrounded by drably colored rocks, the red jasper almost jumps out at you!

The Skokomish Runs clear in August

Owyhee Agate Vein

Agate vein, Succor Creek, Oregon

Although most of what I found in the Succor Creek area of the Owyhee mountains earlier this summer was jasper, I did come out with some other interesting pieces. One of the most intriguing was this thin agate seam cutting through another rock I don't recognize. The agate is bright and colorful, and completely unlike anything else I have found in that area. Who knows where it came from, but the Owyhee country has so many spectacular rocks, both agate and jasper, that nothing should be surprising...

I'll be heading out there again next month for a week of rockhounding. Can't wait.

Out of the Tumbler

Cayucos Jasper - Revealed

Tumbling stones, esp. hard jaspers and agate, takes patience.... and I am not a patient man. So when a batch's time in the grit is up (and maybe a few hours early) I open it with all the enthusiasm of a kid on Christmas morning.

This batch was one I particularly looked forward to since recent months have generated some exceptional collecting opportunities. A sharp reader will recognize these, for example, as polished Cayucos jasper : I posted some of the rough in this blog on May 2. All are of red jasper, with quartz/agate intrusions. Handsome stuff.

Also included in this batch were some pieces of Idaho Japer-Agate I collected in late June (see my July 4 post). One of them came out of the tumbler today with some lovely patterns and colors.

Idaho Jasp-agate

Succor Creek Wood

Petrified Wood, Succor Creek OR

Haven't been out into the field lately, but I am still working on the material I collected at Succor Creek in early June. Although most is high-quality jasper, including some with nice "picture" designs, I also found a fair amount of petrified wood.  Here are just a few of the pieces I gathered along the creek.  I'm sure there's a lot more out there...

Hope to make it back to the area later this summer. In the meantime, I will be exploring some locations closer to home. Stay tuned.

Surprises

By now, you will realize that my idea of heaven is to wander along local beaches picking up interesting stones and trying to piece together the stories behind them. I often fill a bag within an hour or so, and only weeks, if not months, later get to polishing them. So I can maybe be forgiven for not exactly remembering where I found this one, which emerged from the tumbler today. It is of a free-form yellow jasper together with what looks like a pinkish agate. Pink agate?  Never heard of it before - and as always, I have no idea where this rock originated, thousands of years before it landed on the beach where I found it. Yes, it would be nice to know: I'm guessing there are more like it...

Succor Success

Succor Creek Jasper

I'm home and have had a chance to clean up some of my rocks from Succor Creek.  Wow!  I am delighted to have hundreds of pieces of every size and shape. Some I will save for slicing, but I have loads of tumbler material of very high-quality - much better than I got last year.  I am particularly happy to get so much of the Succor Blue Jasper, which I think it stunning.
I haven't shown any here, but I also got some very nice petrified wood fragments - including one very dramatic chunk of swirling black wood. (I'll try and post it later)
I also did some poking around some other areas in SW Idaho, and found a small creek in the foothills around Boise with some stunning football-sized chunks of Yellow/Orange Jasper.  It looks like it may have cracking problems, but I will have to cut into it to see how it holds together. But it has the potential to be stunning.  Two sample pieces below.

Idaho Jasper

All in all, a VERY successful trip. But as I mentioned in my earlier post, next time I go back, I really have to explore some more. There must be vast quantities of hi-grade jasper in those mountains...

Polisher Preview

Cayucos Jasper, CA

Here are two early pieces of the Cayucos Jasper from the Central California coast I found earlier this month (see below) An astonishing diversity of color and pattern, found within just a few yards of the beach. Definitely a place worth going back to.

It's Easier in the Rain

Just home from two weeks in California, and a rainy afternoon gave me a brief opportunity to scour the beaches I have not seen for a while. The rain broadens my access by revealing colors and patterns of rocks across the entire beach, rather than just in the surf zone. This one was high on the beach, and at almost 6" long, jumped out at me.

The one below will almost certainly NOT take a polish, but it might be pretty striking anyhow once it's tumbled a bit.

Good to be back!

Geology 101 Redux

Variolite "Cross-section" - Elwha River

One of my favorite finds from my search for variolites on Sunday was this fellow. About 6" inches long, it shows the distinctive feldspar "dots" of all variolites, but grading dramatically in size from the bottom to the top.  Varioites are believed to form inside "pillow lavas" or basaltic lava that erupts underwater, forming unmistakable round structures visible in many NW roadcuts (especially on the Olympic peninsula). My sources tell me that the smaller dots form as the edges of the pillows, which cool more quickly, while the larger dots grow in the slower-cooled, better-insulated interior of the rock.

This makes sense to me, but whatever the explanation, I thought this sample was particularly cool...

Oddballs and Snowcones

Jasper with graceful seam, Discovery Bay, WA

Sometimes, when walking the shoreline looking for rocks,  you stumble onto complete oddballs - rocks so weird that they just jump out at you. That was the case for this one. I was walking the western shoreline of Discovery Bay, a place I'd never been before, picking up odds and ends during a brief, but intense, hailstorm. I found lots of the usual: bits of quartz, agate, red jasper.
Then I came across this thing. I think it's a piece of jasper with a white quartz seam running through it, but not quite like anything I've ever seen before, sort of like a melting scoop of ice cream. The bold pattern jumped out at me, and it went straight into my collecting bag. Can't wait to polish it and see what that reveals.

Return of the River

Variolites,  Elwha River

One of the biggest things happening in the Northwest this year has been the beginning of two dam removals from the Elwha River on the Olympic Peninsula. It is a huge project, the largest dam removal effort ever undertaken in the US and promises to restore both a spectacular river and the salmon runs that used to inhabit it.  For more information on the project, see here.

I had a chance to visit a part of the river yesterday that has re-emerged from the lake that once covered it;  gravel bars have appeared that I have never seen before!  And those gravels were covered with a rock that I have been tracking for years - Variolites (see previous posts here). I have been convinced that one major source for this rock is in the Elwha Valley. Now after finding dozens within a small area, I am convinced of it. I guess the trick will be to travel upstream until I can't find them anymore - and then look in between!

These things have no gem value, or any other reason for being sought, other than personal obsession. Stay tuned.

Just Before Dark

The sun was shining today - a rarity in March! - which makes beachcombing difficult.  Everything is more reflective, and although glassy rocks like agates show up well, others do not. So after the sun went down I took a short walk on a nearby beach, and brought home just a pocket full: a couple of nice petrified wood and jasper pieces - and a spotted thing I can't identify.
I am heading away from familiar beaches tomorrow and looking for agates in the southwestern part of the state, which may involve a lot of probing and digging. We'll see how THAT goes...

A Morning's Work

Agate, Jasper and.....?

A half hour walk on the beach near my house proved very productive today - ending up with a bag I could barely manage to carry back to the car.  Some of the highlights are pictured here - a banded jasper, a moss agate, a petrified wood and some other things I wouldn't dare to name... All will go into the tumbler this weekend - and if I remember, I'll post the polished forms next week.

The Limits of Photography

Biotite on Granite

This is one of my favorite rocks, found - as always - along the shore of Puget Sound. But the reason I love it is not apparent in this photo. The black biotite (mica) crystals that cover the top of this palm sized cobble shimmer with reflected light. It is a layer of crystals, vaguely parallel, but with just enough variation in orientation to catch the light at slightly different angles.

That's a lot of explanation for a simple rock, not well-photographed. I may need to try some other technique to capture the glittering mica crystals. Trust me, it's a beauty....

Patterned Quartzite (?) and Petrified Wood, Olympic Peninsula

I set out this morning to look for a source of variolites, the polka-dotted rock I have posted about in the past, and which probably originates in the basalts of the Crescent Formation on the Olympic Peninsula. I tracked down a couple possible source areas - and found no evidence of variolites. In fact, I didn't find a single one, which is unusual - I have found them in a variety of locations along the Olympic coast. This would suggest that the source is somewhere further west than where I was looking today.  So another expedition is clearly required...

However, I did get some time to poke around the coast near Sequim, where I found - among many other things - these two beach cobbles: a stained quartzite (or Jasper?) and a handsome piece of petrified wood. Not bad for a quick beach walk.

Missed Opportunity

Owyhee Picture Jasper

I had big plans to head back to the Owyhee country in eastern Oregon this fall to search for more jasper. I had been there in the spring, but high water made access to some of the best collecting sites too difficult, so I promised myself to make an autumn trip.  Well, the rains have started, and autumn has arrived faster than I expected - and my schedule is now too full to allow a minimum three-day trip to the desert. I guess it will have to wait until next year.

These three fragments, polished chips from a piece I collected last spring, will remind me of what I'm missing: one of the greatest collecting locations in the Northwest.

What the Glacier Dragged In

Unknown Rock, Puget Sound beach

By now you will understand that patrolling the beaches of Puget Sound for unusual stones is one of my favorite spare-time activities. This rock helps explain why. I spent an all-too-short half hour on the beach recently, not finding anything special when this one caught my eye, full of stripes and marbling.  Agate, maybe?  Or something softer like travertine or diatomaceous earth?  I need to test the hardness.

Whatever it is, it is unlike anything I have ever found on the local beaches. Who knows where it's from? My hope, in fact, is that someone somewhere seeing these posted pictures will recognize the rocks from their part of the Northwest. It would be fun to know where the glaciers found them...